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乱弹

潭柘寺寻古

冬枫泺

盛夏的北京，流火般的燥热。于是想到一个幽静清爽的去处，那便是潭柘寺了。

潭柘寺位于北京西部门头沟的山中，当年去一次潭柘寺还是很有些周折的，路远还要进山。可现而今就不同了，从市中心驱车一直往西走，不出2个小时，就能到达潭柘寺的山门之外。山还是那山，寺也还是那寺，只是因为交通，仿佛潭柘寺一下子离人们近了许多。

北京人之于潭柘寺，那是很有感情的。真正的老北京都知道一句谚语：“先有潭柘寺，后有北京城”。那么，这个比北京城岁数还大的潭柘寺到底有多老呢？

不说不知道，到了寺门外，才知道潭柘寺竟然已经整整有1700岁了！1700岁的“老寿星”始建于西晋，因寺后有龙潭、山中有柘树而得名。它是佛教传入北京地区后建设的第一座寺院，素有“京都第一寺”之称。潭柘寺始建于晋代（265-420）当时叫嘉福寺，唐代叫龙泉寺，金代重修之后称大万寿寺，元、明、清三代都有修建，清康熙重建赐名岫云禅寺。寺名历代更改不一，独“潭柘”这个名子，传久不衰，一直流传到今天。

坐落于群山环抱之中的潭柘寺，独有一种雍容不俗的气质。一入寺院地界，从山脚下的塔林开始，幽静便笼罩在人的周围了。层层叠叠的树木仿佛一道绿色的墙，挡住了天气的暑热，也同时挡住了世俗的讨扰。岁月的沧桑随处可见，虽然寺中的建筑、雕塑也许不是1700年前的摸样了，但把高耸入云的千年古树，则默默见证了潭柘古寺的悠悠历史。潭柘寺虽然是个寺院，但规模却十分宏大，信步走来，若要看得仔细些，没有半日也是不能够的。在幽静的寺里穿行，心情也变得格外平静，这也许就是人们觉得凉爽的另外一个原因吧：心静自然凉。

很难让人想象，潭柘寺作为一个寺院，也有“移步换景”的绝妙。也许是现在的潭柘寺在明清期间就已经是皇家寺院的缘故，站在高处眺望寺院，会发现有大量的皇家建筑风格融入其中。潭柘寺的大雄宝殿是重檐庑殿顶，与故宫太和殿的设计模式如出一辙，其殿脊琉璃鸱吻被四条鎏金长链“锁住”的造型也与太和殿的鸱吻一样。尤其是在一处僻静的地方，竟然还能发现一处和中南海里一样的“流杯亭”，是当初乾隆在此消夏避暑“曲水流觞”之所，听着那潺潺流水，仿佛听到了当年当歌诗对的笑声。

在寺里寻古，却找不到这寺里赖以成名的“龙潭”了。拉住一位工作人员询问，才知道龙潭早就不出水了。但他又告诉我，潭柘寺将于9月9日迎来建寺1700周年庆典，那天将恢复龙潭出水景观。他兴奋地说，恢复龙潭出水是通过引流潭柘寺旁王坡水库之水，注入宝珠峰上的龙潭，以再现东西观音洞之间长达数千米的山门涧沟奔泉景观和昔日潭柘寺建筑群中泉水奔涌的盛景。同时，众多海内外宗教界人士将齐聚潭柘寺，以九门九进的仪式，共同发表和谐宣言，祈福天下平安。说的人高兴，听得人也高兴：水通人和，天下平安。
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